Fashion and Social Critiques Unfolded: Exploring the Layers of The Umbrellas of Cherbourg
In Jacques Demy's The Umbrellas of Cherbourg, a treasure trove of timeless fashion ideas awaits. This cinematic gem delves into the realms of young love, personal and societal transformation, social class dynamics, and the profound impact of loss amid the backdrop of the Algerian War.
Ann Vernon as Madame Emery and Catherine Denueve as Genevieve Emery
Film Overview
Initially released in 1964, The Umbrellas of Cherbourg, originally titled Les Parapluies de Cherbourg, stands as a seminal masterpiece of the French New Wave, artfully weaving a narrative of young love, societal change, social class dynamics, and the profound impact of loss against the backdrop of the Algerian War. Despite my initial skepticism towards its musical format, a genre I typically loathe due for a myriad of reasons, I approached the film with an open mind and found myself captivated by the breathtaking yet melancholic opening credit sequence that flawlessly set the tone for the entire feature.
Set in the enchanting coastal city of Cherbourg, France, the film traces the whirlwind love story of Genevieve (Catherine Deneuve), a 17-year-old working in her bourgeois mother's umbrella boutique, and Guy (Nino Castelnuovo), a 20-year-old auto mechanic employed at a nearby garage. The lovers vow eternal commitment to each other, but their lives and relationship undergo a profound transformation as the responsibilities of colonialism cast their shadow.
The film's remarkable cinematography, exquisite color palette, engaging writing, and superb acting and lip-syncing performances elevate it beyond the realm of ordinary melodrama, and captivated me until its poignant conclusion. Furthermore, writer & director Jacque Demy's skill in interweaving critiques of the Algerian War, the destructive effects of colonialism on the colonizer, the complexities of social class, and the realities of modern society, become apparent upon repeated viewings, adding depth and resonance to the overall experience. In short, despite its singing and colorful set pieces, this is a serious and mature film.
Starring Catherine Deneuve and the late Nino Castelnuovo, this profound and quirky classic is the second feature in Jacques Demy's "romantic trilogy." Watching the preceding film, Lola, is recommended as it adds a layer of depth to the plot of The Umbrellas of Cherbourg, and helps viewers appreciate one of the most unique flashback sequences in cinematic history.
Fashion
As the film explores modern French society, we are able to see the characters contrasted against the riches the country enjoys as a result of its colonialist exploits. Vibrant color blocking, lace veils, fur coats, yellow bicycles, and a vintage Mercedes Benz sedan are samples of the eye candy prominently featured in the film.
Demy's use of brilliant splashes of color is striking and visually arresting, becoming more apparent as the characters' outfits match the wallpaper in various scenes. From stylish dresses, slim-fit raincoats, and pastel dress shirts to sailor suits, pleated skirts, and one of the most striking postman hats ever captured on film, The Umbrellas of Cherbourg serves up a wealth of fashion ideas for women and men.
Lady of the Afternoon in YSL: Belle De Jour
A beautiful young housewife moonlights as a prostitute during weekday afternoons, and she only wears YSL. Catherine Deneuve is expertly dressed and icy cool as Belle De Jour.
Director Luis Buñuel set movie screens afire with the 1967 release, Belle De Jour. The classic French film stars Catherine Deneuve as a sexually-repressed, bourgeois wife who spends weekday afternoons moonlighting as a prostitute while her oblivious husband is at work. Challenging and erotic, this surrealist film explores bourgeois life, marriage, bondage, sadism, and the Madonna-whore complex.
Belle De Jour also features some of the most beautiful couture fashion ever shown on the silver screen. The stunning costumes worn by Deneuve were designed by Yves Saint Laurent, so each scene in the film looks like a high-fashion magazine advertisement. From stunning coats and exquisite handbags, to gorgeous hats, dresses and shoes, YSL outdid himself with each expertly designed piece. Deneuve also wore "Pilgrim Pumps" in the film. The famous buckled shoes were designed by the legendary French designer and creator of the Stiletto heel, Roger Vivier.
